Ever been to a restaurant in Naples? Me neither. But I imagine it'd be something like Cafe Bionda: large open windows looking out to a bustling street, small, elegant, dark interior, good wine, great service and hot waiters who go by names like Marcello. This classic Italian restaurant does everything just right, from the cold broccoli salad ($8) to ricotta-stuffed jumbo shells topped with mozzarella and tomato vodka sauce ($16) to an extensive wine list.

It's the perfect place to impress a date, or even your mother-in-law, if your date's been sufficiently impressed to marry you. As long as you don't get your spaghetti and meatballs all over you, you can't go wrong here. You don't need to save Cafe Bionda for a special occasion, either; with its convenient location (just steps from the Damen Blue Line stop), you can drop by almost any night of the week for a relaxing, satisfying meal.

Centerstage Reviewer: Beatrice Smigasiewicz