With its unassuming facade and darkened windows, Cafe Effe doesn't do much to welcome random people. If not for the tables outside, it'd be hard to tell that it's even a restaurant. And what a shame, as this coffee bar and restaurant offers hearty Bosnian plates that give newcomers to Eastern European fare a chance to sample a world of flavor.

The restaurant echoes its homeland, with patrons sitting around smoking and drinking espressos. Football (that's soccer to you, Yank) plays on the TV and Europop dance ballads course through the speakers. While the atmosphere makes this spot stand out, it also makes it feel brusque by catering to regulars. I felt every set of eyes on me when I walked in; the server, while polite, kept glancing my way as if wondering why I came.

But after exploring the phonetic odyssey that was the menu, I forgot about the chilly reception (the server kindly put up with my butchered pronunciations). Known especially for its chevapi, grilled rolls of beef that resemble sausages, Cafe Effe features other regional dishes likeraznjici, a form of veal tenderloin, and pljeskavica, a beef burger that originates from Serbia. Vegetarians may want to head to Cafe Effe simply for the coffee; unsurprisingly for Eastern European fare, most of the main dishes include meat. (Even the Famous Bayerisch Salad had turkey!) All entrees cost $7-$10.

If the people became as warm as the food, Cafe Effe could become a hot-spot that draws people away from the more-popular hangouts in Lincoln Square. Either way, it offers a rare experience and delicious, veal-heavy eats.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kent Green