Ministering to patrons and their families with soul satisfying grilled meats and hearty West African stews, chef/owner Diaw Sow is like the Senegalese mother you never had (unless of course you happen to be from Senegal).
If you're sick, her Ceebu jen, aka rice and fish stew, a hearty brew studded with eggplant, carrot, cassava, white cabbage and tomato, will nurse you back to health like the best chicken soup. If you're low on iron, her Debbe — peppery, grilled lamb topped with a sweet vinegar-tanged salad of olives, onion and tomato — will strengthen your blood. And if you're carbo-loading for a big sporting event or looking for a dose of general comfort, her 'beef patty," featuring a flaky puff-pastry filled with fiery spiced ground beef and peppers, Senegal's version of an empanada, will speed you along.
The only caveat is that because Sow is a one-woman show, only about a quarter of her 40-item menu is available at any given time. The good news is that whatever you're eating is fresh and made to order.
Just as welcoming as the food is the intimate narrow studio apartment-sized dining room. Outfitted with a neon hued sunset mural, colorful woven tablecloths, and a selection of wall-mounted African tribal masks, it feels more like your living room than an impersonal restaurant.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant