Step into Cafe Central's non-descript storefront, and you're carried to another land. It's not the interior that transports, as the decor is rather plain: typical diner seating, with very little on the walls to let visitors know that this is a Cuban restaurant. Rather, it's the atmosphere and, of course, the food, that jets you from the Midwest to the Caribbean in seconds.
The Cafe's wait staff is courteous and capable. You never have to look for a waitress; she appears, as if by magic, just when you've made up your mind about what you want. Wearing a blue smock and friendly smile, she speaks to you in heavily accented English peppered with Spanish, giving you some sense of what the mysterious island may be like.
If the food is any indication, the island of Cuba is simple yet rich, at times spicy and beyond enjoyable. You have to try the Cafe's plantains: Boiled, fried or sweet, they are a nice complement to any dish you order. The menu is stacked with hearty dishes like loin steak with onions, fried pork chops, fried halibut, three shellfish salad, roasted chicken and lobster creole (among the menu's priciest dishes at $20). If you're watching your waistline, this isn't the place to grab a light lunch. Vegetarians may also be hard-pressed to find a lifestyle-friendly dish…there were two bits of sausage in my order of yellow rice with pigeon peas. BYOB.