If Vogue was a food, not fashion, bible, Cafe Sushi would get a lot of ink. Masterfully combining the best of the traditional sushi joint with an unpretentious modern flair, it's a powerful combination of classic and cool.

Bedecked in customary blonde wood, the restaurant's many latticed panels are backed with subtle blue lighting that casts a hip, lounge-like glow. Attentive service begins immediately, though leisurely diners won't feel pressured.

Appetizers are typical yet tasty, and a first-course of miso soup and edamame won't disappoint. Though there are a few entrees, including katsu (fried cutlets, available in chicken, pork or beef) and teriyaki, ordering nigiri and maki is the way to go. The nigiri is fresh and tasty, and come one to an order; most pieces cost $2. Expect the usual suspects, plus super white tuna and tomato sushi (tuna, scallop and avocado).

The usual roster of maki standards make an appearance. Spicy tuna and scallop rolls are delicious, and there's a wide variety of veggie options, including salad maki (pickled radish, cucumber and carrot with mixed green). It's the $5.95 Mexican maki, however, that's the stuff of legends. Bursting with yellow tail, jalapeno, cilantro and avocado, and topped with spicy mayonnaise (and not for the weak of heart), it's delicious and powerfully hot. The special maki menu includes a handful of fish-inside-and-out rolls. The rainbow maki is a steal at $7.95, and features cucumber, avocado, tempura flakes and crab on the inside, topped with your choice of tuna, salmon, shrimp or combo.

Luckily, the prices are anything but Vogue-worthy. The BYOB policy makes a reasonable dinner downright modest. Daily lunch specials, like the Bento 3 (spicy tuna maki, California maki and miso soup) at $8.50, are hard to beat.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz