Forget Milton and Shakespeare. When it comes to an education in the classics, a meal at Cape Cod Room provides Ivy League instruction. Opened in 1933 in The Drake Hotel, the restaurant’s decor, a classy nautical theme complete with red checked tablecloths, exposed wooden beams and dark paneled windows, hasn’t seen much change since its early post-Prohibition days. The menu, under the direction of sous chef and Chicago native Russ Elliott, now follows that same “stick to your guns” theme.

Don’t confuse “classic” dishes with “ordinary,” however. Exquisite taste stems from well crafted rather than modishly exotic preparation. The European Dover sole, de-boned tableside with meuniere sauce, is a house specialty, though certainly not the only one. The lobster bisque, New England clam chowder and Bookbinder soups taste as if they’ve been perfected over several decades. Those who stick with seafood won’t be disappointed with the broiled Chilean sea bass on truffle mashed potatoes; or take the traditional route and choose from fillets like turbot, salmon, halibut and tuna, prepared any style. Lobster, crab and a handful of land lover’s entrees complete the offerings.

Service is of the same exceptional caliber, but pleasantly friendly. A note: For a romantic evening, request one of the booths. You’ll sit shoulder-to-shoulder, a less customary set-up that you may want to make a custom of your own.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz