Consider the cupcake. Less substantial than its dumpier cousin the muffin, more humble than its sophisticated sibling the cake, this childhood favorite is surely the most frivolous among Euro-American desserts. But what cupcakes have always lacked in substance or sophistication, they have made up for in cuteness.

A little cuteness goes a long way at Cupcakes, the fanciful Lakeview shop that specializes in just what it's named. In what is either a leap of faith or a practice in futility, each petite treat goes for $3 a pop, the equivalent of a box of cake mix. But make no mistake: These cupcakes are pretty without being overdressed, tasty without being cloyingly sweet and childishly charming without being regressively nostalgic. Perhaps such qualities are appreciated only by the most devout cupcake connoisseurs, but chef Sarah King's exclusive ingredients, buttercream frosting and daily rotation of imaginative flavors should make them irresistible to the common masses as well.

Along with business partner Noah Antieau, the couple caters to both childish palates and grown-up sensibilities. The more mature flavors include Tequila Lime, Chai Latte and Moonshine. For the confectionary enthusiast, there's Lemon Drop, Caramel Apple and Cremesicle. And fear not, staunch traditionalists are always considered: Yellow Cake, German Chocolate and Carrot remain daily staples. Not to mention the line of Pupcakes for your dog.

If you're looking for anything besides cupcakes and coffee drinks, Cupcakes might not be your scene. But who knows, setting foot in the cozy interior decorated with a mural of clouds might make any cynic feel like floating through pastry heaven.

Centerstage Reviewer: Ling Ma