The woven sampler on the wall here depicting a pastoral Peruvian landscape is the kind of thing your grandma probably has in her kitchen. Then again, so are the fake flowers, lavender vinyl seating and general Inca-inspired bric-a-brac that fill out the rest of this cozy Irving Park storefront.

It's not really a surprise, as dining in this charcoal-perfumed dining room pretty much feels like the closest you'll get to being adopted by a Peruvian abuela (unless of course you’re already Peruvian).

The eats like the décor are a rustic taste of home. Heaping plates of garlic- and oregano-flecked chicken, succulent braised lamb with piquant peppers, and crispy mountains of seafood topped with onion and lime can feed whole families. If you're rolling solo and want more manageable portions, don't miss the cracker crisp tostones accompanied by aji or mayo-sauce infused with Peruvian green peppers or the flaky egg washed empanadas filled with succulent piccadillo and sweet raisins.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant