Suhail's theatrical decor makes DeLaCosta feel like the backstage area of a Tim Burton-kissed cabaret. Having trouble picturing it? Think strings of masks hanging in the foyer, velvet curtains lushly crowning the entrance, and a medley of eye-catching light fixtures that range from fabric-colored lanterns to plexiglass chandeliers. The front of the restaurant holds a ceviche bar, a sangria bar, and a regular drink bar that shakes up anything-but-regular libations. You must try the house poptails, which are $12 martinis infused with homemade popsicles. In the lime-coconut martini, for example, a creamy coconut popsicle acts as a stirrer, a chiller, and eventually dissolves into the drink, leaving a tropical-tasting trail in its wake.

In the main dining room, copper-topped tables offer a view of dimly-lit puppets dancing in the wall (very Nightmare before Christmas) and a live DJ spins bossa nova in an elevated booth. Overlooking the Ogden River, a solarium hosts private cabanas, each with an individual bar and bartender, that can be rented out for 12-14 people for about $100 a head (but do call for details).

Finally onto the menu, where celebrity chef Douglas Rodriguez makes his mastery known with Nuevo Latin cuisine: Entrees include cured king salmon with creamy quinoa and black olive caramel, smoked adobo veal brisket drizzled with anchovy chimichurri and pork lechon served with caramelized cabbage and chestnut puree. A proponent of sustainable agriculture, Rodriguez uses only organic ingredients and grass-fed beef. Most entrees cost in the $20-$30 range.

In terms of attire, Suhail has done all the dressing up for you. DeLaCosta isn't as casual as Denny's, so you may want to think about leaving the trucker cap at home, but don't feel the need to get all Charlie Trotter's.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg