In a business where forging an identity is almost as important stuffing a torta, UIC stalwart De Pasada has secured a legacy few of its peers can touch. Tucked away in an unobtrusive Taylor Street three-flat, this kitschy homage to Old Mexico caters to a neighborhood on the move. An open and accessible take-out counter with plenty of room to maneuver past throngs of waiting taco-seekers presents the perfect place for students to grab a quick bite before heading back to class, while a spartan dining area provides just enough privacy to forget the crowds standing in line.

The menu is strictly no-frills, sticking mainly to the conventional taco/burrito/flauta triad, but what De Pasada lacks in originality it more than makes up for in sheer, homemade quality. Tacos are prepared with lean, finely ground beef, marinated to spicy perfection and laid over a definitely-not-store-bought crispy shell. Shredded chicken nearly bursts from doughy burritos, and the salsa verde strikes an almost zen-like harmony between peppers and tangy tomatillos. The cheesy chiles rellenos (sort of the pre-cursor to the jalapeno popper) are extremely tasty, mild and well worth a try.

An array of sweet Jarritos are on stock to wash down De Pasada's spicier entrees, though soft drinks are also available for those who would prefer it. Desserts are limited to flan and tres leches (three-milk) cake, but are at steal only $2.95. In fact, since the menu tops out at eight bucks, everything at De Pasada is a bargain for the student on a budget—or the chorizo-lover with an appetite.

A little farther north? Check out De Pasada's other location at 1108 N. Ashland.

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White