Looking for a restaurant with a bold, in-your-face attitude? Check out Wilmette's Depot Nuevo, whose extremely bright-colored walls (with shades of yellow, green, purple and coral) hit you with attitude that says, "Just try not to notice us." Even the asterisk headnote on the menu that says "you might find this item spicy for your taste" seems like challenge or a dare of sorts.

The basic atmosphere of Depot Nuevo feels like a cross between classy and casual; go ahead and have a bottle of Austrian Riesling, and feel free to wear a T-shirt and shorts at the same time. Prices are fairly moderate, with nothing too cheap but nothing wildly expensive either. The blackened chicken salad provides a heaping of tortillas on top of a cave of corns and beans for a reasonable entrée price of $12. Other options – pan-seared pork tenderloin ($15) or chipotle-rubbed trout ($15) – offer spicy variations that you wouldn't usually find on a Latino menu. But seriously, save room for churros, a sweet, fried pastry served with vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce; this one is 10,000 times better than one found outside the "Viper" ride at Six Flags.

Aside from the beautiful yet brash walls, the building has another distinctive trait: It once served as Wilmette's train depot, and is considered one of the town's most historically important building, dating back to the 1870s. So it might be best to enjoy this meal with the town historian while you're at it.

Centerstage Reviewer: Andy Seifert