As restaurants compete for rights to the most esoteric names, one can't help but thank the fine folks at Dine for their down-home moniker. Simple as it may be, the name hardly contrasts with the unpretentious atmosphere of this West Madison eatery. Everything from the '40s-era music to the tin ceiling smacks of Edward Hooper minimalism.

Nestled beneath the Crowne Plaza Hotel, servers in pristine white jackets are the essence of hospitality. The menu is bold to the extreme: Starters leap from tuna and salmon tartars to mushroom bruschetta to chilled cold water oysters. Expect solid entrees, the most expensive being the $32 filet of beef tenderloin, which is served with red potatoes and asparagus. Other options include grilled yellow fin tuna and rack of Australian lamb.

Desserts, however, is where Dine truly shines; its selection ranges from chocolate raspberry pot pie to carmelized hazelnut tart. And no trip to Dine is complete without a bite of red velvet cake. Pastry chef Kate Milashus doesn't mess with success and lets the Southern treat speak for itself. The menu suggests that it's best for two; take it at its word.

Make Dine part of your Sunday routine with two great events. Sunday Jazz Brunch allows you to sample its wide variety of breakfast and lunch selections. Sunday Supper features an old fashioned menu with a contemporary twist (think hearty meatloaf, mounds of mashed potatoes and cornbread).

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White