Removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown, Edgewater Beach Cafe is, for some, a deliciously well-kept secret. The warm restaurant serves up excellent seafood offerings in the historic Edgewater Beach Apartments building, a well-maintained structure with pink stucco and European flavor.

The gorgeous space boasts white tablecloth tables and a fancy but comfortable feel throughout, with friendly, flawless service and smooth jazz music. Entrees run from $12 to $29 and include broiled salmon, mustard-burgundy grilled shrimp, roasted duck with apple brandy sauce and beef tenderloin topped with red wine herb butter.

This is the kind of place where it's easy to linger over every scrumptious bite. An entree of catfish ($12) coated in French breadcrumbs, pan-fried and finished off in the oven, came with a crisp, fresh lettuce salad, mashed potatoes and green beans sauteed with thin onion slices. The mashed potatoes were a definite hit, for they were made the way God intended—simple, smooth and whipped to perfection and unaccompanied by garlic or any other unnecessary ingredients. Topped with just a squeeze of lemon juice, the lightly breaded catfish burst with freshness and great flavor, and the skinny green beans were also tasty. Dinner was filling without being overly heavy.

Walking through the building's chandelier-filled lobby and the hallway that leads to the restaurant is also a treat. Black-and-white photos of the building's pool terrace and living room from the 1920s and the 1930s heydays dot the hallway, letting visitors see a snapshot of the place from its earlier years.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Mary Susan Littlepage