Open the door to El Palmar and be struck by accordion-fueled Ranchera music, then ease into the surroundings as the hypnotic voice of a Mexican crooner weaves a melody. Quite possibly, Chicago will disappear and be replaced by the small Mexican town of El Palmar in time for the food to arrive.
During the day, as orders are placed, scarcely a word of English is spoken between the waitresses and the customers. At night, people stagger in from nearby neighborhood bars to fill their stomachs with a hearty meal and one last drink before going home to pass out. But as much as anything, a meal at El Palmar is a visual experience.
Vibrantly colored tablecloths embroidered with Aztec designs cover the tables, while the walls are painted burnt orange and adorned with religious icons, bright shiny art and pictures of select plates of food. The menu is a picture book of everything the restaurant serves, and each table has photographs of different dishes under the glass top. Entrees go from $11.60 to $14.65, which includes the requisite refried beans, rice, tomato slice and lettuce, but cheaper fare can be found a la carte; a burrito is $4.75, a taco only $1.40. For $6.10, the burrito is served with refried beans and rice, too. In any case, expect large portions, often smothered in melted cheese.
Behind the brushed steel bar sit three rows of glass shelves where top-of-the-line tequila is kept, from Don Julio Aņejo to Patron Silver. For the late-night reveler, the dessert that best punctuates the meal may be a shot of tequila. The resulting buzz will allay the inevitable culture shock that comes when staring back through the restaurant windows from the street on the way home.
Centerstage Reviewer: Sam Barrett
