In quotes across this sombrero-dotted Southeast Side taqueria's menu reads a Spanish saying along the lines of doubting that you can resist a return visit upon tasting their specialties.

On the particular day we popped in, the swirling spice and sea aromas of a caldo de mariscos owned that right, bubbling with everything from sea scallops to octopus and clams in a chayote squash and celery stock that made our eyes sweat.

On any other occasion, El Charro may resemble a homey replica of the dozens of Mexican kitchens that pepper both the North and South Sides and everything in between. It nails a trio of verde, roja and smoked salsas, and fills true corn tortillas with toothsome char-grilled meats.

A chilaquiles-strong breakfast line-up pairs well with some made-to-order licuados fresher than any sweet horchata finish could hope to be.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul