What may feel like a hole-in-the-wall diner at first could become your portal to the Andes if you block out the drab interior and a TV playing melodramatic telenovelas. Focus instead on the llama tapestry hanging on the wall or the posters of colonial Trujillo and the ruins of Machu Picchu. Ricardo and Claudia moved in last fall and replaced the Ecuadoran “Mr. Pollo” and its rotisserie oven. But the chicken didn’t cross the road.

Fina Estampa still serves a whole head of rotisserie chicken (pollo a la brasa) with fries and a salad for $15 (Ricardo claims he’s the only guy in town who sells it for that price). Or, if you’re on a budget, order half a chicken for $9 or a quarter bird for $6. Other typical Peruvian dishes include the sautéed beef or chicken with cream for $9-$11. Start things off with a tamale served with a healthy portion of red onions, a black olive and super spice sauce ($4.50) to keep you warm through those Andean highland (or blustery Chicago) nights. Then, splurge on the tilapia ceviche served with Peruvian chillies and corn, the fried bread calamari and shrimp, or tilapia with Creole salsa for $12.50-$13.50.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Jacob Wheeler