Analyze Flaming Wok 'n Grill's name word by word, and you probably picture a Chinese restaurant outfitted with a wok and/or a grill. Sure, Chinese might be assuming too much, but you're safe in thinking it refers to Asian cuisine, right? Well, you're in for a surprise, buddy. In fact, if the people who named the Flaming Wok 'n Grill had randomly pointed to words in a dictionary, they probably would have come up with something more suitable. The place serves Indian and Pakistani food 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and has neither a wok nor a grill.

But what it does have is the feel of a diner (think about the "ambiance" of your average 24-hour dive), with wood-paneled walls and a poorly painted Chicago skyline on the back wall. The only indicator of the cuisine is the Bollywood movie playing on the 19-inch corner TV.

According to the wait staff, the night business far outweighs the occasional patron during the day. And we do mean night: Cab drivers file in by the car-full between the hours of midnight and 7 a.m. The menu offers the usual Indian fare, such as gosht, curry and naan at unknown prices (they're not on the menu). It also features dishes like beef paaya, superbly described as "veal's feet cooked with special herbs, spices and good gravy." Unless you're hoping to run into your cabbie from a few weeks ago, or watch Bollywood movies while you eat, you may want to look elsewhere for 'sophisticated' Indian food.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown