Long before Bridgeport became a hot residential neighborhood, longtime residents with big appetites knew that Freddie's Pizza and Pasta was one place to feed the beast. This 16-year-old establishment takes up a whole corner of 31st Street now bustling with new townhouse construction, and it has no intention of moving.

Whether you're eating in or ordering takeout, the lunchtime rush at Freddie's will surely test your patience. The main dining room has no frills, with some card tables and efficient seating dotting the fluorescent-lit room. An old deli display case features fresh meats and cheeses sliced to order for Freddie's fresh sandwiches. Portions here are enormous; only the strongest constitutions and the truly gluttonous can finish the famous breaded steak sandwich, which is as big as two stuffed burritos. If Freddie's were around when Elvis were alive, the indulgence would have taken five years off the King's life.

The parlor also makes some good stick-to-your-ribs pastas, again in portions so large that you'll be eating them for a couple of days at least. Chicken parmigiana comes with two well-breaded breasts, teeming in marinara sauce with a heaping helping of mostaciolli or spaghetti. If all that breaded goodness weighs you down, try the char-chicken sandwich with an order of pasta fagioli.

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo