One of only a handful of Indian restaurants not on Devon, Gaylord retains its ethnic authenticity while catering to the downtown crowd. Situated at street level under green awnings, the restaurant appears demure on a block that often resembles the Vegas strip with its Rainforest and Hard Rock Cafes.

The interior is swathed in muted colors, the only real flair being curlicue chandeliers whose shape is mimicked by the textured whorls in the curtains. Whatever charm the color palette lacks, the hosts more than make up for. Impeccably dressed in Armani, they saunter up to tables and, brandishing a smile, crack a joke or two.

The menu offers a wide selection of traditional Indian fare, including vindaloo, tandoori, curries and naan. Entrees range from $8 to $12, and the average-size portions are filling. The famished and cost-conscious should check out the lunch buffet, where $9 gets you more than enough.

Centerstage Reviewer: David Rosenstock