Devon has so many Indian restaurants that the sidewalks are practically stained with paan oil. But Hema's truly stands out from the rest by serving hefty portions made with the freshest ingredients. Set on a side street off of Devon Avenue, where Gandhi's image sells everything from electronics to pedicures, the colorful restaurant has big front windows allowing the sun to trickle in. Shimmering tapestries and ceramic sayings, like "May the Lord Bless and Keep You!," hang across the pink walls.

Personable waiters popped open the beer I had brought and poured it into chilled glasses. The daunting menu offers many vegetarian and carnivorous delights. Don't let yourself fall into those logic games of what you should be eating: just follow your gut. We ended up selecting items with little reasoning other than, "I am so in the mood for spinach." Not a problem! No wrong turn can be taken with Hema's cooking.

Each platter that arrived was more delicious than the last. For starters, I had the kheema samosa (two for $3.49), which came steaming and filled with tender dices of lamb mixed with an array of spices, which my western tongue loved but couldn't recognize. Next we dabbled in the green curry fish ($10.99), a lively combination cooked in a yogurt curry. Because of my constant Popeye-like need for spinach (without it I lose my super powers), I ordered the dal palak($8.99), a lentil and spinach dish cooked with spices and lemon juice.

I was shoveling heaping spoonfuls in my mouth so quick that I didn't notice myself starting to sweat. Fortunately, the thoughtful waiter had left a pitcher of ice water on the table, so I could pour one glass after another.

Centerstage Reviewer: Maude Standish