When we visited Wok Cuisine in Albany Park, one of the country's top 100 Chinese restaurants, we left with equally high expectations for its sister restaurant, Hunan Spring in Forest Glen. Just like its little sister, Hunan tucks itself cozily within a community plaza with plenty of parking and offers more than 200 plates. Hunan only loses where Wok wins: the aesthetics.

Eight's a crowd here, and the two feet of space between your table and the next makes for an awkward wait. Your attention jumps from your neighbor's piercing blue eyes to the faded hat sitting atop the delivery driver's head. This minimal list of distractions only means the space needs a facelift.

Finish unconsciously making the dude beside you uncomfortable, and then dip into the Chicago River via any one of the printed posters stapled onto wheat-colored walls – the refreshing thought reminds you that no water (or silverware for that matter) had been set down, and when it does, it's in a Dixie cup.

All strikes went against this compact shop, until your meal arrives. The piping hot plate of General Tso's chicken, assisted by a side of fried wontons cooked in vegetable oil and absent of MSG, delivers the goods. CTA employees, DMV staff and the folks at Citizens Bank and Trust include some of Hunan's usual clientele.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez