Jerry Suqi has moved around the corner and up a few hours in the day from Chickpea
– specifically, to Damen and to brunch. In the former Dodo spot, Suqi and owner/chef Jeffrey Mauro (of Charlie Trotter's
fame) have created a sleek palate of silver and clear components that keep warm with yellow half-tablecloths, bright sconces and the food itself.
Fresh juices, Metropolis Coffee, sparkling water and bottled soda are available amongst the usual beverages for $3 apiece. For breakfast, offerings include a malted custard French toast, with macerated stone fruit, lime leaf cream and crushed pink peppercorn for $10, or blueberry pancakes with lemon creme fraiche and pure maple syrup for $9. A (three)dom mix and match option lets you create a traditional breakfast of your choice for $8 – options include traditional pancakes, eggs or fresh fruit, or more left field options like braised pork cheeks or rice grits.
If you're looking for lunch, Jam offers a few sandwiches, two salads and a single soup (asparagus, with apricot sour cream, for $5). An octopus salad ($8) with heirloom tomatoes, chorizo, frisee and ginger is not for the bland. If you're looking for the most filling option, the signature Jamburger is probably your best bet - double beef patties layered with smoked tomato sauce, Butterkasse cheese and a sunny-side egg for $10 (with fries, don't worry).
All of the plates at Jam lean towards style rather than size. Dessert is no exception, so you may as well indulge in not-quite-bite-sized pecan muffins with maple cream cheese – it's a small package for $3, but it packs a lot of flavor.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge