The interior of this Northwest Side buffet, with its flagstone mural walls, fabric paneled booths and deco mirror arrangements, has a Poland-meets-Brady Bunch feel. The walls are lined with a thrift store-style trove of paintings depicting waterfalls and pastoral settings. A respectable alternative to the much lauded Red Apple, standbys like pierogies, stuffed cabbage, blintzes and pork are excellent. Heartier options like beef stroganoff, meatballs in gravy and breaded pork chops are soul-satisfying options to stave off Chicago's long winter. Bowls of lard studded with dots of meat are placed on each table; only patrons who have recently undergone a rigorous cardiac stress test should attempt to spread it like butter on the accompanying bread.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant