Once the shock of the ethereal, dim lighting, white-leather wall seating and signature green walls wears off after entering Koryo, you realize it: Toto, we're not in Chicago anymore.

With its neon glow and slightly kooky-cool vibe, this Lakeview sushi-Korean joint seems like it could have once entertained Emerald City munchkins and other Friends Of Dorothy; it's not hard to picture them sitting back with their chopsticks and sucking up fine wines while anxiously awaiting those beautiful, colorful oceanic creations that Glinda herself may have summoned with her wand.

Oz-ians—the wait staff, who have a regrettable penchant for Kenny G—welcome you with green tea and warm wishes (the salutatory kind, not magical). Perusing the menu proves difficult, as the landscape continually begs for attention, particularly the block people prints on a back wall (which appear to have escaped not from the aforementioned fantasy land, but Disney's "The Emperor's New Groove").

Raw-fish revelers will want to start with sunomono, a vinegary, rainbow assortment of our underwater friends. Maki mavens and bi bim bop fans alike will find something palate-pleasing, as entrees consist of sushi and Korean classics, including the fabulously spicy calamari buk-kum($15). Sushi choices can cost anywhere from $5 to $15.

Those who get tornado-swept into Koryo (which, aptly enough, refers to an ancient dynasty in the Korean Peninsula) should be looking to splurge rather than save. While not outrageously expensive, a dinner for two will average about $50.

Centerstage Reviewer: Paige Gray