Taquerias and burrito joints are a dime a dozen. The specialty of this corner restaurant in New City/Back of the Yards is in its name.

"Cecina" is thin beef strips, marinated and grilled with homemade tortillas, pico de gallo and guacamole. Standard cecina at La Cecina is great on its own, but it also comes in four other varieties, from Azteca (smothered in mocaljete sauce and melted cheese) to a rellena stuffed with chorizo and cheese and served with a red or green sauce.

La Cecina's menu is loaded with a wide range of soups, entrees, appetizers and standard Mexican food. Fried smelts are a novel treat for folks who break out the fishing gear every spring for the tiny fish. For poultry lovers, the chicken breast covered with cheese and chipotle sauce will satisfy both your cravings for chicken and provide a low smoky spice that becomes more intense as you clean the plate.

You'll have some time to negotiate the rather expansive menu, which is alright, since with all the families that seem to dine there, the staff is often on its heels trying to facilitate orders. The barred windows are a nice touch.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo