Walk through the Palmer House Hilton's freshly restored lobby (characterized by soaring ceilings, murals dotted with fluttering cupids and artfully arranged white roses), and try not to desperately crave a Manhattan when you pull up a chair at Lockwood's island-style bar. There's something about being in one of the city's oldest and most storied hotels, in a restaurant that's named after Lockwood Honore (brother of Bertha Palmer, a celebrated Gold Coast socialite of decades past) that makes you want to party like it's 1899.

Bertha Palmer's eye for fashion and fine art inspired the restaurant's decor, where a woman's touch is channeled in details that give the space just the right balance of elegance and warmth. A white-on-white and olive color scheme provides a crisp backdrop for original Tiffany candelabras, acanthus leaf wall coverings, furniture accented with leather and mohair and metal screens dolled up with laser-cut patterns.

Chef Philip Foss's menu focuses on contemporary fare with French and Italian accents. The Faux Gras pairs duck liver terrine with brioche, pepper-infused caramel and champagne-leek gelee. Foss's osso bucco lasagne is prepared with Jerusalem artichoke puree and sauteed spinach and finished with parmesan foam. A meatier signature dish is the Surf, Turf and Turf, an offering of prime beef tenderloin, short ribs and butter-poached Maine lobster.

The dessert menu pays homage to the restaurant's muse with the Bertha's Famous Brownie Revisited. Local lore has it that the brownie was invented by a Palmer House chef when Bertha asked him to concoct a chocolate dessert that could be taken on a picnic. Lockwood's version, which presents a glass of chocolate milk mousse, chocolate ice cream, chocolate-shiraz sauce and an almond croustillant, eschews portability for whimsy.

Entrees average about $35 each.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg