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Los Moles

View Map3140 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 935-9620
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Editorial Review of Los Moles

In order to learn about Los Moles, you must first understand what mole is. Mole is a sauce created for celebrations because it takes so long to make. It is often made with friends or family for weddings or festivals and can take more than five hours to prepare. Each of the 32 states in Mexico has its own version of mole and some have several. And, because of mole's importance, the recipes are not exactly passed around. So, chef Geno Bahena spent years perfecting the mole he remembered from his childhood. The result is the menu at Los Moles.

Mole here comes in four colors; red, green, white and black, and range from having eight to 32 ingredients. Like many sauces, they are often prepared the day before so the flavors have time to meld together. In Mexico, mole is served only with turkey, but Bahena takes some liberties with tradition and mixes the moles with different fish, foul and meat.

Not that the whole menu is mole. There are several other Mexican favorites represented as well. Bahena uses only the freshest ingredients and will feature daily specials created on the spot with whatever his produce man finds that looks delicious. Even the tortillas are made to order, and the ice cream as well.

The atmosphere is fun and a little funky with red booths and chairs and colorful wall decorations. It is currently open for dinner only, but will eventually add lunch and brunch to its menu.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Christy Bonstell

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5-10 p.m. Sunday-Monday, Wednesday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

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chicago, metromix