The outside of Chicago's only fine dining Polish restaurant, with its white aluminum siding and two porthole-like windows, looks like the prow of an ocean liner. Inside there's a Polish Liberace vibe replete with gold and marble trimmings, a white grand piano, copious mirrors and a golden-spoke chandelier that doubles as a wine rack above the bar. Unlike its counterparts, Lutnia eschews buffet-style grub illuminated by heat lamps and rustic country fare in favor of artful presentations of Polish classics (with the occasional French touch, in the form of frog's legs and escargot).

While the offerings have more finesse, they're no less heart attack-inducing. Mushrooms are stuffed with spinach, egg and mozzarella cheese, while chicken liver is fried and tossed with prunes and bacon. Wild game and roasted meats like roast duck flambe in a zingy orange sauce or roast boar served in an herby juniper perfumed gravy are highlights.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant