In this blithe and northerly neighborhood in a worldly Rogers Park community, Luzzat fits right in. Nearby store owners and residents have energetically kind regards of Luzzat. The extended-family restaurant's owner himself agrees. "We have the best food in town, and the best prices!" said Muhammad (Mike) Rafi. And he may be right, as all entrees are under $10.

Inside the doorway, beyond the understated signage, are warm colors, a sink for sudden hand washing, a boom box straight out of your 1980s dreams, and the scent of fresh coconut milk fusing with curry, herbs, and meat. Speaking of meat, Luzzat has 16 vegetarian entrées. Highly recommended is the Dal Baigan: yellow lentils roasted with eggplant, seasoned with light spices, mustard and garlic.

Even in fine economic times, this BYOB is a top spot for a meal you'll remember for awhile, depending on your long-term memory. A five-course meal is a financial possibility, not to mention a good idea. Let's say: coffee, keema samosa start-up, lentil soup, Paratha bread, chicken masala, mango frozen milk & sugar dessert ($15). Or, mango Lassie, vegetable soup, peas pilaf, shrimp shahi, and Indian dessert made of milk, ricotta cheese and sweet syrup ($22).

So that my mistake has a purpose, the joint is pronounced LAH-ZIT. You're welcome.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Anderson