The calloused hands of many, many Incas constructed the real Machu Picchu in 1450 A.D. Peru. Thousands of years later, Chicago now has its own Machu Picchu, though this one rests in a building that was built by tan construction workers in the '70s, and it's BYOB.

A mural of the namesake mountain covers the largest wall of the restaurant's sparsely decorated interior. The white-tile floors are slippery clean, and a spotless mirror visually expands the already spacious room. On one wall hangs an enlarged photo of a quintessential Peruvian girl with her llama, and after looking at it for a few minutes, I realized where I'd seen her face before: on the cover of my sixth grade Spanish class book.

Bland aesthetics aside, Machu Picchu's gourmet variations on indigenous Peruvian food are spectacular. Seafood's the way to go at most Peruvian spots, and the same standard applies here. The ceviche mixto, a medley of seafood marinated in a tart lime juice and hot pepper rocoto sauce, tastes as a fresh as you can get this far away from the shore. The aji de gallina, shredded chicken, onions, garlic, cheese, walnuts and spices, tasted a bit like a potpie but lighter and more flavorful, making it the perfect comfort food. If you're looking for something with a bit more definition, the arroz con pato, a whole duck cooked in beer and cilantro, is so tender it almost disintegrates on your tongue.

The made-to-order meals can take a while, but the waiters generously refill bread (they brought us three baskets while we waited). Served with a spicy avocado sauce, it will sate your hunger until your order comes out steaming. Entrees cost around $10-$12.

Centerstage Reviewer: Maude Standish