The hard-partying ancient Romans may well have invented the concept of dinner and a show. Mangia Roma keeps that tradition alive, serving up straightforward Italian food directly across the street from the Steppenwolf Theatre. Thankfully, our idea of entertainment has evolved beyond gladiatorial lion fights to the far more civilized notion of watching dysfunctional family fights featuring Gary Sinise.

The restaurant reflects this 21st century ideals, with exposed brick and dark lighting barely illuminating the cozy, intimate space. The menu offers more options than were probably enjoyed by our ancient counterparts, and the appetizers are cheap: Homemade fried mushrooms are on offer, but the arancini (a breaded rice ball stuffed with a seasoned meat sauce, peas, and mozzarella) is the standout at $4.75. A grilled panini will set you back $6.50, and the hearty size is a good value.

At $11-$17, the entrees cost about what one would expect to pay in a Lincoln Park Italian eatery, however. Luckily, the portions are sizable; at least part of an order of gnocchi with sausage will be coming home with you in a doggy bag. The entrees come with a large slice of very tasty foccacia and a less-than-special house salad. At these prices, the little plastic cup in which your dressing comes is a disappointment. A variety of pizzas are available as well ($9-$23, depending on size and topping), from thin to deep-dish to Roman-style. Try the latter for a thick and crispy crust with a slight hint of butter. If you can handle it, end your meal with some cannoli.

The wine list is large, with reasonable prices on single glasses. Mangia Roma offers a full bar, and on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays is open as long as you want the vino to flow and the bread and circuses to continue.

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman