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in Lincoln Park or Fullerton on the Red line

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The Meatloaf Bakery

View Map2464 N. Clark St., Chicago
Tel: (773) 698-6667
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Editorial Review of The Meatloaf Bakery

Lincoln Park has reached a certain level of affluence that is comparable to the Amazon rain forest – (night)life is so thriving, that super-specialized contenders can still get a piece of the pie. Nearly any style and price range of restaurant can be found, and a few extra-specialized entrants are the first of their kind in the city. But while a restaurant for just cupcakes is so last year, The Meatloaf Bakery decided to take it a few (or perhaps many) steps further: They present to the public a literal bakery of meat.

The first conception that needs to be dispelled upon entering The Meatloaf Bakery is that it is a place for a meal. There are only two small tables inside, and little space expended for customers. The case contains a large array of meatloaf products, all shaped like baked goods. Flavors run the mill from traditional "motherloaf" to the buffalo wing-like "Wing and a Prayer" meatloaf (with blue cheese crust and ranch on the side). The focus of the display case is on the “cupcakes” – cupcake-shaped mini-meatloaves topped with mashed potatoes shaped like frosting, most running about $8.50.

"Loafies" are tiny $2 bites with the ingredients and flavors of their larger counterparts put into hors d'oeuvres. A full loaf of any of the varieties will run a whopping $35 (or $44 for the salmon-filled Omega-3 topped with wasabi mashed potatoes).

But the point doesn't seem to be about getting you a full meal – rather, it's once again, a bakery of meatloaf. The most striking proof is in the exquisitely odd appearance of the No Buns About It Burger Loaf – bacon, cheddar, onions, mustard, ketchup, pickles and beef fill a two tier cake topped with special sauce for icing and cheesy taters for garnish icing rims.

The shop shouldn't be used for the hungry looking for a filling bite on the way home; all items are served cooked, but cold (unless you ask very nicely and don't mind waiting 20 minutes). Just remember it the next time you need to get something for the party and can't remember whether you were assigned a main course or a dessert.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge

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Hours

11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; noon-5 p.m. Sunday

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chicago

chicago, metromix