Situated on a street lined with eateries geared toward twentysomethings and sports bars, Merlo, a classic Italian spot, feels seemingly out-of-place. But the restaurant and its customers, many of whom filter in after enjoying a show in the nearby theater district, bring a bit of maturity to this strip. The older crowd comes with a hearty appetite, ready to enjoy food and company in the simple space—yellow walls, dark woods and candlelit tables topped with white linens.

The menu centers on traditional Bolognese pasta, meat and fish recipes, served up in heaping portions. You'll find items like lasagna, with spinach, ragu, besciamella sauce and parmigiano reggiano, and a roasted beef tenderloin topped with a wine sauce of shallots and capers. The fried shrimp, scallops and calamari with artichokes and zucchini will please even the pickiest of seafood lovers, and the torta della nonna, a rich tart with a custard filling, pine nuts and berries, makes for a pleasant finish.

At the front of the restaurant, a wine bar serves as a more casual area for light meals and drinks, making it a great place to meet with friends after work. Its special menu offers a selection of imported cheeses served with homemade bread, marmalade of red onion, slices of pear, nuts and dried raisins—perfect to pair with a glass of wine, which will most certainly cost less than $10.

Centerstage Reviewer: Janis Mabalay