Keep your eyes peeled or you'll blow right by Mista's nondescript storefront sandwiched into the crowded stretch of Broadway Street in Lakeview. But if you're diligent and head inside, you'll be rewarded with pizza with delicious cracker crust and toppings that are "always all natural."

They have standards like cheese, pepperoni and sausage, but it's worth springing for the more expensive specialty pizzas. With the exception of the chipotle chicken pizza, the pies are straightforward. The best of the bunch, the Florentine, has fresh spinach, organic mushrooms and roasted garlic, with puddles of sweet ricotta interspersed with the mozzarella. Other satisfying options include a couple variations on the tomato/greens/cheese theme, a veggie pizza made with low-fat mozzarella and, the lone meat representative, the Prosciutto di Parma.

The one catch is that the recommended portions are misleading. The regular size is supposedly meant for one to two people but really falls more in the "light meal" range. To get toward the point of belt-loosening, order the large ("feeds two to three"). Cheaper, more substantial options on the chalkboard menu include five salads, two lasagnas (one of which uses thinly-sliced eggplant in place of pasta) and a trio of wraps. Desserts, such as cannoli, bread pudding and chocolate cake, are also available.

Seating is limited, with room for just 10 at tables and four at a window counter, so it's tempting to just have your pizza delivered or to get it to go, especially given the astonishingly short wait for take-out orders. But there's always an available table, so it's well worth taking advantage of the BYOB policy and dining in.

Average cost: <$10

Centerstage Reviewer: Alexander Hough