Editorial Review of Mr. Shrimp

If you shed tears when historical spots like the Berghoff close, you'll rejoice in the crustiest of all Chicago originals: Mr. Shrimp. Charles, the gap-toothed, paper-boat-hat-wearing owner, opened the place 53 years ago when he left the Marines—and he's likely to man the deep fryer as long as this ship stays afloat.

The front counter—a repurposed Baskin-Robbins freezer case—shares space with an out-of-order pop cooler filled with Beanie Babies (they're not for sale) and a massive, cast-iron stove. On the menu—handwritten in black marker on poster board—you can see where Charles has painted over and crossed out old specials and prices.

The lightly-breaded and expertly-fried shrimp, some of the best in Chicago, come flecked with herbs and spices and with crinkle-cut fries at your request. Adventurous eaters can indulge in succulent alligator or tender frog legs; chicken, ribs and buffalo wings round out the menu. Seafood specials range from $4.99 for a half-pound of catfish nuggets to $19.99 for a pound of jumbo fried shrimp. With no seating, it's carryout only.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant