After settling into New Rebozo with a bowl of toasty tortilla chips, grinning owner Franciso "Paco" Lopez will greet you with a handshake or hug. As he presents the daily specials with friendly exuberance ("…with mole, with onions, so sweet, sour, spicy, oh my God…"), you'll start cheering before the first sip of your hefty margarita. He's the gem that makes this Mexican eatery worth the trek to Oak Park from the city.

Lopez uses traditional Mexican recipes inspired by his mother and dresses them up with lovely presentations and ultra-fresh, flavorful ingredients. The daily special menu always features, among other dishes, a colossal plate of six enchiladas smothered in six different homemade mole sauces. Ordering the dish lets you sample sauces in flavors like chocolate, pumpkin, sunflower, cinnamon and almond. Other treats include tortilla soup, pollo con mole, red snapper, tacos and burritos.

Stucco walls, plenty of folk art, paper garlands and signed photos from fans create an atmosphere that feels kitschy without going overboard. Festive music, red Christmas lights and dim overhead lighting will render you oblivious to the packed tables around you. When your margarita pitcher runs dry, end your meal with a scoop of chocolate-jalapeno ice cream or a cup of coffee—with cream, with sugar, so rich, spicy, oh my God.

Centerstage Reviewer: Julia Steinberger