A swank seafood restaurant in the spirit of luxuriant Chicago steakhouses, this is the kind of spot where they comb the crumbs off your table, refold your napkin if you flit off to the bathroom and wrap your leftovers in shiny aluminum foil sculptures.

Located in a glass-encased, aquarium-style building, Nick's boasts a romantic, enchantment-under-the-sea vibe. Side-wall banquettes full of rich leather and wood feature individual dimmer switches so you can set the lighting to your taste; make it bright to get a clear view of the lavish platings, or turn it down low for a little booth canoodling. Be sure to request a table next to the wall of windows that look onto Chase Plaza, providing a can't-miss view of Marc Chagall's breathtaking mosaic or the plaza fountains.

The food preparations range from perfect execution of classics including smoky oysters Rockefeller, garlicky clams casino and artery-hardening Lobster Thermidor, to modern fusion like sweet and spicy citrus ginger salmon or soy sake-glazed Chilean sea bass. Appetizers: $5.95-$7.95; Entrees: $22.95-$54.95.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant