Like a lone chunk of glacier floating in a sea of Mexican-owned businesses and restaurants, Operetta seems two intersections too far from the Belmont-Cragin neighborhood popular for its Eastern European cafes and eateries. However, Operetta still fills up, thanks to humungous portions and a random selection of treats.
A Bohemian restaurant seems the last place you'd find kung pao chicken, but you'll find it here for $13. Just like the rap songs playing overhead, the mostly Czech menu features a number of special guests, including Warsaw roast beef, spaghetti a la Al Capone and Greek salad (most entrees run $10-$12). The range of choices helps bring in Europeans of all kinds: Hungarians, Poles, Russians and Bulgarians. Even a few Mexican families come in on busy nights.
Still, don't forget the Bohemian roots of the place; start off with potato pancakes ($6.50) before a plate of Gurmann's goulash. While you wait, admire the plates of other guests. However, don't creep them out; a big-screen television helps divert your attention.
The restaurant has more of a cafe feel thanks to burgundy-colored tablecloths over four-top tables. Potted palms and lilies sprout throughout the room. Czech castles sketched onto oak canvasses hang from the walls and recessed lighting maintains the smooth mood of the space. When your meal arrives, order any of three Czech beers, all under $5. Post-meal, enjoy a slice of hazelnut cheesecake ($7).
Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez
