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in Avondale or Montrose on the Blue line

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Ostioneria Mar Abierto

View Map3826 W. Montrose Ave., Chicago
Tel: (773) 509-0919
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Editorial Review of Ostioneria Mar Abierto

We discovered Ostioneria Mar Abierto (which loosely translates to the open sea seafood restaurant) totally by accident. It was like casting the line hoping for snapper, but to our surprise reeled in a marlin. See, we actually mistook the dine-in for Sabroso Grill, our intended catch of the day down the block; Ostioneria lacks a sign, so you couldn't blame us! We revisited after the owner's wife, Melisa Canales, adorably challenged, "Our food is better! And, we have an outdoor patio."

She prides the outdoor dining lined with potted mums and palms. On any given day, a group of 30 enjoys this warm-welcomed amenity unseen in this sector of Avondale with a Hermosa-like swag. Looking around, we noticed Ostioneria slowly creeps toward transition. The patio marked the first revolution. What's in store next? An outdoor patio cast in white lights is fine, but a patio in white lights while slurping a frozen margarita sets an even grander tone. Expect a liquor license soon; meanwhile, BYO works.

Inside, interior designers marvel at a scarlet tin ceiling and dated exposed ventilation – could it be the trend started here 15 years ago? Matching scarlet-vinyl chairs hug tables mostly displayed for groups, but late night stragglers do just fine with all the extra space. Chain-linked lamps light the room circulated by stainless steel fans. Horned melon-colored walls brighten, as do the Aztec calendars and Diego Rivera paintings hung on them. An empty fish tank shows promise for dropping that last ounce of flair once filled.

Typically, the eatery fills with families, especially during soccer matches admired on a big screen. Folks feast on typical Mexican bounties from tacos and tortas to burritos and tostadas, $1.60-$6.50. However, coastal recipes are what it's all about. The soups look as though someone threw a bucket into the ocean and came up with a colorful treasure chest of red-orange crab legs and clam shells festooned with regional cactus specialties ($7.99-$13), while the whole fried fish plates flagged with cubed avocados and ringed oranges also appeal, $12.99.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: David-Anthony Gonzalez

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Hours

10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 10 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday

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chicago

chicago, metromix