Artists often choose to work in the medium that best fits their style and lets their imagination take perfect form. Chefs do the same thing, says Peter McCarthy, owner of Pier 5736, a fresh seafood joint in the northern part of the city.

McCarthy jokes that he's more interested in preparing delicious, affordable food than he is in decorating the place. But, there is something comfortable about the 54-seat establishment. One room of the restaurant feels like a neighborhood bar with its tall burgundy walls, White Sox memorabilia and large posters from the now-closed jazz joint, Gold Star Sardine Bar. The second room feels more upscale; charcoal drawings of celebrities hang on its khaki walls, and terracotta-color tile floors and white linen-covered tables finish off its sleek style.

The focus here is definitely on the food. McCarthy talks to his seafood provider daily and orders only enough fish to last the day. Once he's out, he's out. On Tuesday and Sunday he runs a handful of $10 fresh fish specials that include salad, potato and vegetable; Wednesday and Thursday he offers a $25 three-course meal. The most popular items on the menu are the lake perch ($19.50) and crab cakes ($19.95), but other choices include crab-stuffed trout ($19.95) and king crab legs ($32.50). If there's something from the sea you're craving in particular, McCarthy will special order it for you with 48-hour advanced notice.

Pier 5736 draws its clientele from all over the city and, McCarthy says with a smile, you'll see his diners sporting everything from booster seats to walkers.

Centerstage Reviewer: Christy Bonstell