Pizza Metro is a curio of the Chicago pizza scene. While there are plenty of places that go thin crust in a New York style, or bubble and blacken the crust for a chewy Neopolitan style, Marco Schiavoni, the man behind three of the near west-side’s go-to pizza places (that all happen to share the same name) just brings it all the way back to Rome.

Granted, Mr. Schiavoni has his hands in several other Italian restaurants around town, including Trattoria Pizzeria I Monelli and Pizza Rustica. But along Division street, the head of the wolf (Pizza Metro’s logo) is the beacon that draws in hungry pizza lovers who won’t settle for average.

The menu offers an ample collection of appetizers, including bruschetta, suppli (a creamy ball of rice, cheese, egg and fried goodness for $1.25) or potato crocchetta (potato croquettes, a similar trip into fried goodness for $1.20) and of course garlic bread (with emphasis on the garlic) for $2.20.

But the reason you’re here (and the correct reason to be here) is to taste one of the most unique pizzas that Chicago has to offer. The motto is: “Solo Pizza Quadrata Roma”: Only Roman square pizza, and so it is – a slice will get you a large block of several smaller slices, perfect for sampling your neighbor’s taste creation. And there are some fine taste creations to be had – blue cheese, crumbled sausage, grilled chicken, sautéed spinach, anchovies and jalapenos are available amongst many others to mix and match on the pizza as you please. Or try one of their classics – the potato and rosemary pizza has potato medallions and a healthy sprinkling of rosemary over the top of a sauce-less pizza for an earthy but delicious treat. Slices run from $2.60 to $3.65 (for the seven topping garbage slice), half pizzas run from $8.95 to $12.50, and full 18-inch pizzas run from $17 to $24.25.

The people behind Pizza Metro and opened up an outpost in Humboldt Park with pies and more.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Dan Morgridge