You don't have to go to the Ritz to get Ritz-quality food. Get the heck out of urban dodge and hop on the Edens for a first-rate dining experience. Former chefs of the fancy-pants hotel, chefs/owners Sarah Stegner and George Bumbaris serve what they call "no-fuss" food—American favorites like eggs benedict and skirt steak—to a steady cast of North Shore regulars at Prairie Grass Cafe.

A step through the glass door marks a smooth transition from the daily grind back to nature: sand-color stone walls, dark cherry wood paneling, mocha leather chairs and photographs of birds and lakes complementing the earth-tone decor. Six flat screens, located between the bar and the main dining room, feature a running film of Bill Kurtis' (beloved Chicago CBS news reporter) Kansas ranch. Even the green marble-top bar, where the restaurant mixes about a dozen martinis for its pairing menu (featuring small plates like veggie tempura and mini pulled-pork sandwiches), stands beneath a taupe canopy.

With Stegner's husband serving as sommelier and her mother in charge of dessert, the kitchen is a full-on family affair. Brunch includes the Signature Benedict (two poached eggs over sauteed spinach, Neuskes bacon and an English muffin topped with roasted tomato hollandaise), waffles, challah French toast and a smoked salmon and cream cheese omelet. The lunch menu serves up a variety of sandwiches and salads, like the crispy chicken salad with tomato and honey-jalapeno dressing or the egg salad sandwich with watercress on honey-wheat bread. A true highlight from the lunch menu is the crepe with balsamic-glazed Portobello mushrooms and Gruyere cheese. For dinner, don't miss the moussaka, with layers of braised lamb, tomato, eggplant and golden-crusted bechamel, or the Lake Superior whitefish, served with mashed potatoes and a basil remoulade. Brunch and lunch items range from $6-$19 while dinner is a bit pricier, with entrees at $13-$29. No matter what meal you have, save room for dessert.

Centerstage Reviewer: Eve Ardell