Steakhouses are no longer the much-trodden domain of grandparents and stodgy execs, thanks to David Burke's Primehouse. Situated in the James Hotel, this restaurant successfully pairs the modish with the classic, presenting contemporary interpretations of steakhouse standards.

The main dining area is quite spacious, with red-leather-covered tables and booths (I'd recommend the latter if you're looking for quiet conversation, as it gets quite noisy). Service is knowledgeable and prompt, and questions about the expansive wine menu and meat selection are readily encouraged.

Everything here gets a little twist: The bread basket gives way to eggy popovers, and chef David Burke's seafood-heavy appetizers include East-Meets-West oysters, pretzel-crusted crab cakes and the exceptional kobe beef sashimi. Though there are plenty if-you-must non-beef entrees, it's hard to pass on the red meat. The restaurant's Prime Black Angus beef hails from Kentucky's Creekstone Farms, and is dry-aged on premises in a salt-tiled aging room.

Steaks run $34-$42 and include a signature "South Side" filet mignon that, unlike most filets, is lightly aged. In addition to Burke's two signature sauces, you can further customize with a miso sauce or blue cheese mousse, among others. Sides pack extra umph as well, from the chorizo-whipped mashed potatoes to the grilled organic mushrooms. But it's not all savories: Don't leave without trying the signature lollipop tree, a whimsical piece outfitted in chocolate-dipped cheesecake lollipops.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Schwartz