Though it might seem like it on the surface, Province is not Nacional 27 2: Electric Boogaloo. True, former Nacional 27
Chef Randy Zweiban is bringing his famed ceviches and some Latin flair to his meals at this new West Loop spot, but, unless someone does a few too many shots, you won't find a salsa dancer in sight.
Likewise, the cabana chic draperies, potted palm trees, and black lacquer of Nacional have been traded in for a green-friendly LEED certified airy well lighted space featuring floor-to-ceiling windows, earthy reclaimed cork and wooden tables, and a shocking hot pink wall featuring the largest and most exquisite photo of a white eggplant maybe ever taken.
And if the surreal eggplant photography doesn't trip you out, you'll definitely feel like you've had one too many when you spot the row of gravity-defying petrified upside down Manzanita trees hanging from the ceiling in the dining room.
What really differentiates Province from Nacional is that if you're not in the mood or you're a bit squeamish about the idea of an ahi tuna taco or rabbit confit with a Marcona almond emulsion (both on the menu at Province), you can score plenty of familiar, though spiced up fare like a top-notch burger with crispy pomme frites and succulent roast organic chicken smothered in green salsa.
Average cost: $10-$20
Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant
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After a decade at Nacional 27, the drummer-turned-chef makes new music at Province.