Flanking the Western Avenue calm of
Bucktown, Pura Belleza – Spanish for "pure beauty" – specializes in five-tabled free Wi-Fi secrecy, as both a breakfast-dinner bistro and craft shop. Working with a half-exposed kitchen the size of a pick-up truck's flatbed, an adorably affable husband and wife duo give special attention to mornings, all teeth and smiles to get you to try their freshly juiced oranges or eats spanning everything from plain bagels to orange marmalade cream-stuffed French toast numbers, with roots-shiners like chilaquiles and rajas poblanas coming in bountiful skillet and omelet form.
Come noon and on, smoothies and milk shakes get whipped aside tortas, wraps, paninos, triple-decker sammies, build-your-own burgers, salads ... the list does go on like it's got a Mexican-Napoleon complex. And we didn't even get into the fresh-made Chai teas and chipotle-spiced hot chocolate, which are only trumped by a house espresso roast that smells like Earth in a bean and finishes with a little apricot zing.
The "pure beauty" of it all starts to hit in that anticipation time between order and meal, when your eyes wander above at the streamers pulled straight from a pueblo courtyard, and walls of handmade bead art, wood carvings and ceramics splay about with backstories reaching deep into indigenous Zapotec and Huichol Mexico. The experience is a bit cheapened with some Manuel Jiminez-inspired folk pieces, which is kind of like an Andy Warhol print in a Starbucks, but when the bill hits the table for under $10, you'll be mouthing the name of this place in your best Spanish accent for days on end.
Average cost: <$10
Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul