Frosty mint-green and white patterned awnings that hang below the cursive Symphony's sign give the American Italian bistro a cheery, countryside charm. White decals of graphic leaves draw patrons into the restaurant, which continues its mint-and-white pattern on the inside walls over maroon vinyl booths and tables with elegantly striped, cushioned chairs—a beautiful contrast in style and color so precisely North-Shore-meets-wine-cellar it looks like Ms. Stewart did the designing.

A pastry case filled with plastic-wrapped pie slices, cakes and mousses squats next to the corner bar—a small but classic wooden niche with a granite countertop. Symphony's breakfast and lunch menu is vast: over 13 kinds of omelets, as well as pancakes other house specialties, plus a list of sandwiches and salads. Heavier entrees are offered, like eggplant parmigian and beef medallions (both $13.95), but if you're in the mood for a real hearty meal, hold out until dinner for favorites like mango tenderloin, chicken and shrimp estelle (with sautéed sun-dried tomatoes in lemon garlic sauce over pasta, $20); chicken Genovese (asparagus, sun-dried tomatoes, creamy pesto and goat cheese over pasta, $18) and Portabello gnocchi.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kate Puhala