After cementing his reputation with a James Beard award at Farmington, Michigan's Tribute and setting the bar high at Okada in Las Vegas' Wynn Hotel, Takashi Yagihashi returns to the city that gave him his start. The former Ambria veteran (and current owner of Noodles by Takashi in Macy's on State Street) has done a complete overhaul of the building that most recently housed Stephanie Izard's Scylla. Gone are the lived-in feel and warm colors of Scylla, replaced by exposed brick painted silver-gray and beige, setting off cherry wood accents. Upstairs the color scheme continues, with silver upholstered panels arranged to resemble a tatami mat hanging from the ceiling.

First-time diners to Takashi can expect to find a creative blend of large and small plates centered on Yagihashi's fusion of Japanese, progressive American and French styles, with an emphasis on letting natural flavors come to the front of the dishes, and rotated according to seasonality. A winter roll of white eye tuna, shrimp and mizuna is wrapped in prosciutto and drizzled in hot-and-sour sauce. Sauteed Maine scallops and soba gnocchi are paired with trumpet royale mushrooms and a celery-root parmesan foam. Get four to six small plates and enjoy.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Chuck Sudo