The former chef of Meritage Cafe and Wine Bar, Tony Graves, is now serving up eclectic American fare in this contemporary neighborhood bistro in Lincoln Square. What once was She She in is now a swanky little spot focused on fusion food.

Servers here are knowledgeable about the food and won't bombard you with recommendations unless you ask. Nor will you have to sit through a slew of specials, thanks to the ever-changing menu. There are, however, a few favorites that are bound to stay, such as the Maine lobster deviled eggs. The prices are a little steep, and while you may not be getting more bang for your buck, small plates of mussels (with grilled pineapple, Thai chili, basil and coconut), buffalo tartar (with red onions, capers and horseradish-maple aioli) and crab fritters are palate-pleasing musts. Dinner choices range from the savory skate wing and rabbit confit to the more exotic assortment of calves' liver and sweetbreads.

If you want to check out Tallulah without breaking the bank, try the Sunday brunch, when the priciest thing on the menu is the Tallulah Benedict Maine lobster served with prosciutto, poached eggs and pesto hollandaise ($14). Or bring your own bottle of wine on BYO Tuesdays and escape the regular $25 corkage fee (which is also about the price of Tallulah's cheapest bottle).

The only artwork here is what lands at your table; plated presentations are so damn fancy that the room doesn't need to offer any other decor. With its downplayed interior, Tallulah is minimalism at its best. White vinyl tablecloths, rectangular white dishes and white walls create a clean atmosphere. In the main room, an oversize mirror, slung horizontally, takes up the entire left wall. A nook of private booths just past the illuminated marble-topped bar makes for a more romantic setting, but the restaurant doesn't seem to have any issues winning over dreamy glances from its cooing diners.

Average cost: $21-$30

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden