If you're looking to score a taco or a clock bearing the logo of your favorite Mexican soccer team, Taqueria Puebla's a one-stop shop. The walls and ceiling are wallpapered with soccer posters, photographs of owner Antonio Anteliz posing with famous Mexican sports stars from his other life as a Mexican radio broadcaster, vintage Oscar de la Hoya boxing posters and hockey cards. The Mexican state of Puebla is known as the "city of tiles," and there's a ubiquitous grid of ceramic, linoleum and acoustic tiles throughout the restaurant.

The spartan and eclectic decor belie a cuisine that, much like De la Hoya's powerful fists, will knock you out. Most of the city's taquerias reflect the carne asada- or pollo-driven taco and burrito cuisine of Mexican states like Michoacan, Jalisco or Mexico City, whereas the traditional Poblano food served here is a melting pot of international influences.

There's a large population of Lebanese descendents living in Puebla, and the taco arabes, $2.60, a thick flour tortilla studded with spit-roasted pork, caramelized onion, oregano, vinegar and assorted spices, is a close cousin of traditional Middle Eastern lamb schwarma.

The cemita milaneza, $6, a sesame-crusted grilled bun filled with a breaded, butterflied pork chop, papalo (a leafy green similar to cilantro that's grown in the Anteliz family backyard), chipotle peppers and a mozzarella like string cheese from Chipilo, a town settled by Northern Italians, reminds you of a smoky veal parmesan sandwich. Adventurous eaters can opt for the cemita pata, which substitutes boiled cows foot for the pork chop.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant