The Greek restaurants in downtown Chicago's Greektown are amazing. But with so many of them in such a small stretch of city, they can feel a bit gimmicky. Sometimes it's nice when a restaurant is just a restaurant.

A classic look can be so much less distracting than an eatery that feels a pressure to be some sort of portal to Mt. Olympus itself. Tasso's eschews the column-based dining room design in favor of simple and modern exposed brick and candlelight. It's not that the Naperville restaurant is superior, it's just simple.

Tasso's, like any good Greek restaurant, provides a lively party atmosphere. It isn't uncommon to hear "Opa!" announcing the arrival of saganaki, or flaming Greek cheese several times on a busy night. The lamb kabobs here are a major standout, and most every dinner platter is more food than even hungry diners can handle. There's a full bar, with a few Greek-inspired cocktails, but the beer selection is somewhat limited.

Entree prices start around $15 and only go up from there. That portion of Chicago's Greektown experience is definitely in effect out here at Tasso's. Reservations result in being seated quickly, so call ahead if you absolutely can't wait.

Average cost: $10-$20

Centerstage Reviewer: Bill Burman